Monday, June 23, 2014

Runyak for Liberty, Day 72 thru 75

Days 72 thru 75


Runyak for Liberty, Day 72, May 7, 2014


The winter of 2014 was the roughest I’ve ever experienced. Spring had to wait an extra month to arrive, or so it seemed to me. Yet, unlike the past years when I needed a warm spring day to begin the kayaking season; that was not needed on the Erie Canal. In the canal, kayaking is as easy as falling out of bed. My plan was to begin season six on Thursday, May 1. But something occurred two weeks earlier that made that starting day questionable.

I was riding my bike April 18th and the front wheel’s quick release came loose. When trying to jump a rise in the pavement the wheel came off and I went head over heels. Honestly, I went “heel over head.” Never understood the saying “head over heels” for under normal circumstance ones head is always above their heels. The clichĂ© should be reversed.

I hit the pavement headfirst. Thank goodness I was wearing a helmet or I might not be able to write this now. Next, my rib cage went plowing into the handlebars and (from x-rays) at least four ribs were broken. When lying on the ground not moving, one of the things that went through my head was: would I be able to runyak in two weeks?

The following few days after the accident were maybe the worst in my life as far as (non-self-induced - accidental) pain goes, but I was determined to head back to Clyde, NY come the first day of May.

Two days before I was to leave, friends were trying to talk me out of it, but on my datebook there wasn't another four days clear for some weeks. 

The wife also tried to talk some sense into me. I again look at the calendar. The following week was clear except Sunday was Mother’s Day. I’d never been away from home on Mother’s Day, so that was not an option.

Hope and I share grandparenting duties during the school week because of our daughters teaching job. If Hope was willing to an extra day of solo grandparenting I’d put off runyaking for another six days. She agreed and I stayed home and did some more healing.

It is a good thing I did. Because of spring flooding, the locks were not open until 8:00 am May 7. That's the same day I arrived.

Today, after launching from where I left off last October at Clyde’s Lauraville Landing,  
I paddled two miles to Lock 26 and was the first boat through the lock in 2014.

From Clyde the canal takes a very southerly dip in geography into an area more remote than anywhere on the canal previously. Because of this, the next landing was over 16 miles away by boat, and over 11 by foot. If I broke the paddle distance into two days the run distance would be more than the paddle distance for lack of roads.  

I was not sure I could paddle over 16 miles with broken ribs, so I decided to run last. If I couldn’t make it, I could always find a way back somehow on foot. Also plaguing me for a couple months was epicondylitis (tennis elbow). In the end the tennis elbow bothered me more than the broken ribs, at least when kayaking.

When through Lock 26 I saw power lines passing over the canal. Upon utility poles on both sides were huge birds nest. I first thought they were osprey nest but soon saw a parenting great blue heron land in one.  

The sightings could have been expected a few miles ahead, for I was approaching Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge, but I was still on the outreaches of the preserve.

Down canal a bit further I saw another large nest. This time I saw bald eagles landing near it. It excited me because it was the first eagle sightings of the expedition since 2011.

About halfway into the 16-mile paddle I approached another lock: #25. I planned to disembark before going through, have lunch, and assess whether paddling another 8 miles was physically possible. When approaching the lock I tried calling the lockmaster to let him know I was near, which is custom, but I 'd programmed the wrong number in my phone. So, I found a place where I could dock; then wandered around looking for the lockmaster as I ate my lunch.

I never did find him. Opening day of the year for the lock and the lockmaster not here? I ultimately gave up the search and portaged Swiftee the 200 yards.
The lock would have only lowered me six-feet; not like I really needed a lock to begin with. At the lower level I began paddling again.

Since leaving Clyde the canal does look different; more like a river. Well, it is a river. The latest of the canal improvements of the early 20th Century took better advantage of the nearby rivers. Causes of the change: barges being larger, wider, motorized; not drawn by mules (my supposition). Where I’m paddling is or once was called the Clyde River. Well after a mile of paddling from Lock 25, I found where the longer Erie Canal and the shorter Cayuga-Seneca Canal (which takes advantage of the Seneca River) meet.
As I progress to Albany I will pass more of these shorter canals of the New York State Canalway System. Had I turned and followed the other canal it would’ve taken me to New York's Finger (Cayuga & Seneca) Lakes.

From this junction the canal now takes advantage of the Seneca River. The Old Erie Canal was much straighter, the newer river version sees much more meandering.

The boat launch where I debarked today was quite muddy from recent flooding; so when out of the kayak, I was slipping and sliding every which way. No longer is there a trail to the decked launch, just grass, which was very soggy. There was a nearby bridge (Howland Island Road bridge) but it was closed, so the area was very remote. Until the bridge closed I'm guessing it hadn't been.

Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge was to the south, but where I landed is NY state’s Northern Montezuma Wildlife Management Area. I would have almost a three-mile run on a hilly, sometimes rutted, clay, closed road to get to the exit of the area.

The entire run back to Clyde was 11.5 miles. Still suffering from broken ribs of 21 day ago, I thought the run would never end. The ribs were the source of the pain but it caused a backache that was close to intolerable by the time I finished.           

Day 72 – 11.5 run, 16.1 yaked
=======================================================================
Runyak for Liberty, Day 73, May 8, 2014

When returning the next morning about 8:00 am I parked on the opposite side of the canal where Swiftee was hidden. The Howland Island Rd. bridge was barricaded but pedestrians could enter the game area by walking over it.

At least four vehicle besides mine were parked at the dead end road. I looked around for fishermen but didn't see a one, hmmm. Just before launching a young lad with a shotgun passed by and said "Hi."

Ah, it's turkey hunting season, that's why all the vehicles.

Just a mile into the paddle I again spotted a bald eagle. The kind of thing I love seeing, accompanied with a feeling of solitude.

With it being the second day the locks were open, I only saw one boat on the canal, or Seneca River, whatever I decide to call it.


Seems all the landings and launches noted on the Canalway Water Trail Map are not fitting my runyaking distances. So, I ended the paddle at a large restaurant on the canal that did not have a canoe landing or launch. I'd only found Delvaney's Riverside Grill by using satellite images on Google Earth. From images I could see a landing, but when I arrived it was too high up for Swiftee. I carefully exited from the bank and prepared for the afternoon run.



I ate at Delvaney's before the run and asked for permission to leave Swiftee on the bank cabled to a tree. It was still quite early in the afternoon when the kayak and I parted. I wouldn't see him again until morning. It probably was the longest I'd ever left him unattended.

After the run back to the van I drove some distance to Syracuse, NY where I spent the evening and even slept in a parking lot of Armory Square, the city's nightlife district. I was awakened more than once in the night by heavy rains and thunder. I lost much sleep thinking about Swiftee… and how wet the next day’s runyaking might be.

Day 73 – 7.0 run, 6.4 yaked
 =======================================================================
Runyak for Liberty, Day 74, May 9, 2014

When I awoke at 5:30 am the rain had stopped. From the parking lot I walked back through Armory Square. Hours before it was bustling with people. Now it was empty and the street now glowed in the dawns light, pavement still wet from the all night rain. I was the only person left from the night before.

I headed for a Starbucks, which did not open until 6:00 am, another ten minutes. When seeing a woman carrying flowers in, I followed behind her, for I was chilled and wanted to get out of the breezy morning air. She immediately read the riot act to me. Starbuck Corporate policy says only employees can be in the store when not open for business. With my tail tucked between my legs I walked back out. Next to the Starbucks I passed time watching a 24-second shot clock tick down over twenty times. The clock is a monument to the “rule that saved basketball.” The rule was first devised and used in Syracuse in the 1950s. 



Finally, I was able to get the CafĂ© Americano I'd wanted and get out of Syracuse and back to Delvaney’s to be reunited with Swiftee. He was quite drenched from last nights deluge. I had to stand him on end to get all the water out. The jacket I’d planned to wear was hanging from a pole and drenched. But at least it wasn’t presently raining. I might stay dry while paddling.

After draining Swiftee I looked around for an external phone battery, that I’d forgotten the day before. After many minutes searching and getting upset I finally gave up. I was about to launch, when there it was sitting on a stump. Finding it made me a much happier paddler.

With less than two miles of paddling I could see the I-90 New York Thruway on my starboard side. The Erie Canal runs from Buffalo to Albany and the toll road does basically the same but rarely this close. This is the first location going east where motorized vehicles and water vessels can view each other.

Being from Michigan I dislike tollways and especially find the tolls of this particular turnpike expensive. Before Runyak to Liberty began, when I crossing New York state, the tolls irritated me. 
I now know that the New York Canalways are subsidized by the tolls of New York Thruway. When I get lowered through locks for free I thank the system and I’m sure the lockmasters have similar feelings for their jobs.

For the third day in row I saw a bald eagle. Can't get any luckier than that, or do I have an eagle-eye.
Does it have something to do with the canal being a river? Hope so, for the canal incorporates rivers for much of the distance from here to Albany. This makes the eighth day of the thus 74-days of the expedition, I've spotted one or more eagles while paddling: three times on the Flint River the first year, twice the third year on Lake Erie, then the past three days of my sixth year.

At the five-mile mark of today's paddle the "canal" crosses Cross Lake. Beforehand, I wondered if I'd have to follow the shoreline, or make a direct crossing to where the canal exited the lake. I'd save .75-mile if traversing the shorter way. It would all depend on whether the weather was windy. As it turned out the lake was calm and I bee-lined it across Cross.

Before the crossing I'd been in communication with Hope back home. She seems to worry constantly about me making bad choices. Today I was able to ease her mind with my smart phone; taking a photo of the lake's calmness then sending it directly to her phone.

It's amazing the technological changes just since I began exploring by kayak in 2005. When I began, I was using underwater disposable cameras. I also printed maps and sealed them in waterproof bags. My water/shock-proof-military-grade smart phone has eliminated both. Today with gps locating I know exactly where I am on the map. And so does Hope back in Michigan. As long as she sees my blip moving on the map she's not worrying.

Not far after the Cross Lake, Seneca River dips south for a mile, then loops back north again. A channel was cut to make it shorter. Had I followed the channel - the true Erie Canal - I'd have saved two miles of paddling. But if I had, it would have created a bigger problem, for the next landing/launch would have made the run possibly 15 or 20 miles. So, I followed the Seneca River to the bottom of its loop. There I had options of a launch or landings at Jack's Reef, NY, a settlement of small cottages on the river.

I chose a floating dock belonging to Trapper's Bar. The owner there gave me permission to leave Swiftee overnight.

The run back to Delvaney’s was nearly ten miles. There was a stretch of Canalway Trail System I took advantage of, although it did not follow the canal I'm paddling. It was part of the 36-mile “Old Erie Canal State Park Trail.” It takes advantage of the towpath of the Old Erie Canal. While running I stopped and took photos of Jordan Lock or Lock 51 that been out of use for a hundred years.

The run was exhausting because of the heat and the crash injuries of 22 days earlier. At times I was running 17 minute pace. I seriously could have walked faster but that would be against the rules! With a mile still to go I exited the trail by a party store, where I bought a large Coke for some hydration to finish.

Water might have been a better choice but I have a problem paying money for bottled water. I come from a time people would have laughed at the very thought of buying bottled water. I still can't wrap my head around the idea.

After three days of runyaking and sleeping in the van I was ready for a hot shower and a real bed. I drove back to Syracuse, now only a dozen mile away, looking for a motel. After several inquiries I found nothing available unless I was ready to fork out $140 or more. It was University of Syracuse graduation week and hoteliers had jacked up prices to gouge the graduate's family and friends.

El Cheapo runyaker found a Pilot Travel Center, shelled out $12 for a hot shower and slept in the parking lot with the rest of the truckers.

Day 74 – 9.75 run, 8.9 yaked
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Runyak for Liberty, Day 75, May 10, 2013

Rainstorms again woke me up in the wee hours of the night. After the final awakening I drove to where I would end my May runyaking trip, Community Park of Baldwinsville, NY. After three days consecutive days of kayaking first, and running last, I decided to go back to my usual routine, run first, kayak last. Thoughts of repeating yesterday’s hot afternoon run was what sealed the decision.

It was less than 9 miles, and because of my freshly recharged body from last nights sleep with the truckers, it was the easiest of the four days of running even though I’d run 30 miles the first three days. My mood while running was better, I even stopped and took photos of flowers along the way.

I am getting closer to the Adirondack Mountains and I felt it today; the miles were hillier than the previous day's runs.

About halfway into the run I came upon a crossroad named West Sorrell Hill. I panicked. The last road I crossed was Sorrell Hill. Was I going the wrong way? I had stopped a half-mile back to take photos. I must have taken off afterwards in the wrong direction? But the corner didn’t look familiar, so I pulled out the smartphone and looked at my location. On the map I saw that there were two Sorrell Hill roads, the last intersection I’d past was East Sorrell Hill Rd. I was relieved thanks to a gps and smartphone. Years before I might have ran extra miles to find out I was wrong to begin with.

When arriving on foot back at Trapper's bar and before launching, I again had to drain Swiftee from last night’s rain even though the cockpit was mostly covered with a spray skirt.

While in route on the Seneca River/Erie canal I kept an “eagle” eye out, trying to make it four days in a row, but the three-day streak ended.

In downtown Baldwinsville, and a mile from the launch where I’d land, was Lock 24, the twelfth lock I passed through (or portage by). I’m now feeling like a seasoned boatman navigating through them. To the point I don’t need to acknowledge gawking spectators watching locking procedures. Yet I did wave to a young couple as I exit and paddle onward.
I was now 199-feet lower than when I started the canal back in Buffalo.

It was a mere fifteen minutes later that Swiftee scraped bottom and landed at the boat launch at Community Park.

Before I left for this trip I wondered if what I was about to do (four days and eighty miles of runyaking) was very smart considering my physical condition. While packing to go home I acknowledged it had been a success; I was glad I’d done it.           

 Day 75 – 8.5 run, , 10.2 yaked
======================================================================
Four day total - 41.5 run  41.4yaked

 Map of 1733 miles runyaked 

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Runyak 4 Liberty Days 68 thru 71


Days 68 thru 71 

Runyak for Liberty, Day 68, October 25, 2013


            Feeling like a slacker for only accumulating 196 runyaking miles this season I felt a need to fit in one last trip to the Erie Canal. That number is well below the 347-mile average of the past four seasons.
            Finding four days in October with nothing on my calendar I packed Swiftee and colder weather gear and headed for Fairport, New York where I’d left off in August.
           
 When I entered Canada from Port Huron the customs agent started the usual grilling.
           
The younger than usual agent asked, “Where to you live?”
“Clio, Michigan.” I replied.
“Your destination?”
“Fairport, NY.”
“Purpose of your trip.”
“I’m kayaking the Erie Canal.” I stated, slapping Swiftee’s bow positioned beside me.
“Boring.” He said.
“Sometimes.” I said not wanting say the wrong thing to a border agent.

He said, “My idea of kayaking is in class IV or V whitewater. Now that’s kayaking.

“I’ve never tried whitewater kayaking I told him.”
           
 What I really I wanted to say was, “Oh yeah!” and then go into why I was paddling the Erie Canal and give him the details about running and kayaking to Lady Liberty but new better, not wanting the contents of my van my dumped and searched. I kept my ego in check.
          
 One other thing made this border official stand out amongst all others. He called me out on my passport signature, saying it’s supposed to be signed in ink and not felt tip. Hell, I’ve used this passport over 50 times, no other official has ever brought it to my attention let alone tell me I needed to fix it. Yep, he’s a special agent.

I arrived in Fairport, NY the evening before runyaking but didn’t look for a motel. Going solo for the first time this year I decided to sleep in the van as much as possible. I’d be staying four nights and figured by the third night I’d need a motel, if not for anything else but to bathe after two days of sweating.

Sleep did not come easy that first night. I parked seventy yards from where I’d debark in the morning. What I didn’t know was seventy yards in another direction were three railroad tracks. It seemed every half-hour I was awakened by locomotives blowing their whistles. Seriously, I thought railroading was dying as a shipping mode. Apparently not, at least not in this part of NY along the Erie Canal.

With little sleep I awoke, then planted the van near the town of Palmyra. When driving to Palmyra, following the canal, something caught my eye on the far side of the waterway. At the next bridge I drove out of my way to see what exactly it was. It turned out to be remnants of Lock 60. Not Lock 60 of the original canal but the, “Enlarged Erie Canal.”
  
The canal I'm paddling in 2013 officially is the New York State Barge Canal. It was completed in 1918 and replaced the narrower yet “Enlarged Erie Canal” that was finished in 1862. The original canal opened in 1825. Ruins of the original canal are a rare find today. In its day it was referred to as “Clinton's Ditch.” That derogatory name along with “Clinton's Folly” was given to the project of then New York Governor Dewitt Clinton.
Looking at the historic remains of Lock 60 one apparent difference was the width.
It was only about 12-feet wide. Today’s locks are 40-feet wide. Heck, the entire width of the original Clinton's Ditch itself was 40 feet. The Ditch was only 4-feet deep. The enlarged second canal, a work of progress from 1834 to 1862, was 70-feet wide and 7-feet deep. Today's “barge canal” is about double that, 140-feet wide and 12-feet deep.
            Get that? Here it is again:
            New York Barge Canal          140-ft wide       12-ft deep           Lock width 40-ft
            Enlarged Erie Canal                 70-ft wide         7-ft deep           Lock width 12-ft
            Clinton’s Ditch                         40-ft wide        4-ft deep            Lock width 8-ft
           
But all those names can be ignored, the Erie Canal is what everybody has and always will call it.

After a twelve-mile run from Palmyra back to Fairport, Swiftee and I were on our way. I went through two more locks today, 30 and 29. Both are in the vicinity of the old Lock 60 I’d visited. Comparing the numbers, it’s obvious there were twice as many locks “way back when.” Hydraulics of today’s locks can move boats up or down 25 feet. Early Nineteenth Century technology could only handle 12 feet, thus the reason for so many more locks.
It was cold enough paddling and running today that during the entire runyak leg I only saw one other boat on the canal. It only had one person on board, a fisherman, bundled up much like myself.
It was soon after seeing him I went through the second lock of the day. The fishing boat had launched between the two locks and didn’t use either. I'm thinking I may have been the only boat that used Locks 30 and 29 the entire day. There was plenty of boating going on when here in June and August. The colorful green and red canal houseboats I'd seen numerous times then are now dry-docked. I passed where they were stored, the Mid-Lakes Navigation Co. marina, near the town of Macedon, before descending the 19.5-ft drop of Lock 30.
           
It had been a long cold day and I was happy to reach Port of Palmyra. It’s an inlet off the canal and looks quite new, or at least so looked the floating launch where I debarked.
           
Sleeping that night in the van the temperature got into the low 30s. Even though the zipper on the sleeping bag had come apart, I still managed to stay warm and get more sleep than the night before when trains kept waking me.
            Day 68 – 12.0 run, 11.4 yaked 

Runyak for Liberty, Day 69, October 26, 2013

 I was anxious to finish running and begin paddling today from Port Palmyra because rain was forecasted for early afternoon. I kept a rain parka beside me while paddling for I didn’t think I’d make my finish line, Newark, NY before the rain. Yesterday, momentarily I did use it. But, soon as I donned it the rained stopped.

I’d hung the parka still wet from yesterday in a tree near the dock to dry. Upon grabbing the dried rain gear today, to my right, I notice what looked like a thicket of bamboo. Having never seen naturally growing bamboo I had to check it out closer.

It was stalked, jointed and hollow like bamboo. USDA map for the weed.
I later learned it was Japanese knotweed unrelated to bamboo. It is an invasive plant and the reason I’d never seen it before is it has only been reported in one Michigan County, Iosco. Funny… the county where I did encounter it, Wayne, NY, wasn’t even charted on the
           
Once paddling the speed at which I moved varied. Cold winds blew into my face at times. I was expecting rain to begin falling about the time I reached what is called Widewaters. At Widewaters the canal, which is normally 140-feet wide, broadens to what looks like a quarter-mile wide. It looked and seemed like a lake for nearly two miles. Cottages along the shore enforced my thoughts. Before approaching I envisioned winds making big waves as rain poured upon me.
           
Rain did not douse me the entire runyak segment and the rippling lake never turned wavy. Beyond Whitewaters the wind died down and it was an enjoyable fall paddle. There were gorgeous autumn colors for the next two miles.
The canal was blanketed with fallen leaves all the way to my van in Newark, NY (repeat that quickly and you got: Nyuk, Nyuk.) (Curly made me add that).
    
My landing was another floating dock, which I prefer over boat launches. It wasn’t always so. Until mastering the rollout from boat-onto-dock it can be tricky and the kayak can easily flip. The landing was not listed on the Interactive Canalway Water Trail map. Hmmm.

The dock was adjacent to the office of Newark Chamber of Commerce’s, “Welcome and Interpretation Center.” So, after pulling Swiftee onto the dock I went into the center to get permission to leave him overnight and get some lodging brochures since this was the night I intended to motel it.

In the center I met Renee.


She showed me wheere to cable Swiftee. He’s never had nicer confines as in Newark. Murals painted on the walls made it look as if Swiftee spent the night in a castle.
When mentioning I was looking for a motel, mostly for bathing and inter
net, she said, “We do have showers downstairs.”

“How much?” I had to ask.

“Free. It’s there for canal boaters and cyclists. Just signed in and I’ll give you a key. Make sure you put the key in the dropbox before you leave Newark.” She said.

Fantastic, I thought and asked, “Would you happen to have wi-fi?”

“We do.”

I now had no reason for a motel. (El Cheapo runyaker strikes gold!) Rene even called the police department and got permission for me to park overnight on the city street in front of the center.

A World Series game between Boston Red Sox and the St. Louis Cardinals was being played that night so I found a sports bar, Parker’s Grille and Tap Room and watched a few innings. While sitting at the bar and texting daughter Amber, I told her I was in Newark, NY.
“That’s Amy’s hometown,” she texted back.

Quite the coincidence because six day earlier I ran the last half of the Detroit Marathon with Amber and her friend Amy Crespo Sergent. I didn't even know she was from New York.

“I was probably sitting next to her brother.” I jokingly texted back to Amber as I left the taproom and headed for my sleeping bag in the van. I was able to fix the bag’s broken zipper and so slept better than the two previous nights.
Day 69 – 8.5 run, 8.5 yaked 

Runyak for Liberty, Day 70, October 27, 2013
I arose early enough that it was still dark. I prepped Swiftee, dropped the key of in the dropbox and headed to where the 70th day of my journey would end, Lyons, NY. If going by the Interactive Canalway Water Trail map, before passing through Lock 28A there was a launch at Abbey Park. Today feeling the run and kayak segments were too short, and when finding another unmapped landing in downtown Lyons, I decided to bypass Abbey Park and finish downtown. More and more I’m finding the Canalway Water Trail map needs updating. I will not be relying on it as much in the future.

Another resource also needs updating, the Erie Canalway Heritage (bike) Trail map. Since Lockport (3rd day on the canal) to Newark I’ve been utilizing it. All reports said it ended at Newark. Today, I ran roads thinking there was no trail. Later in the day, after finishing I learned the trail recently was extended to Lyons.

 While running back to Swiftee, I remembered I’d left my cell phone in my van.

I immediately stopped and thought about what I should do, go back and fetch it, or continue. Safe as I feel paddling the canal, the wife still wants to be notified when I’m on water and off. Another reason the phone was needed, I’d be going through three locks during the six-mile paddle. All lockmasters want to be notified when you’re approaching their lock. Most boats on the canal have marine radios for relaying this information. Funny thing, kayaks don’t have marine radios. I shouldn’t say that, maybe them fancy-schmancy ones do, but not my Swiftee.

I decided to continue, thinking once I got to Swiftee at Newark’s Chamber of Commerce they’d let my use their phone. I proceeded on foot until seeing Lock 28A, the middle lock of the three I’d passing through. It was very close to the road I was running on. I decided to go and talk to the Lockmaster, tell him my predicament. Maybe he could inform the two lockmasters above and below him of my day’s intentions. 

I had to climb an embankment to get to the lock’s station quarters. Opening the door I could smell breakfast being fried. Two days earlier I’d entered Lock 30 early in the morning and the wonderful smell of eggs and bacon hit me at that station also. Each lock is a one-man operation. Every lockmaster I’ve met seems to like his job and I can see why. Yet this time of year, with no boat traffic, it might get lonely. I suppose, if it does, there are always other lockmasters to communicate with.

I explained my minor dilemma to the lock operator and he said he’d radio the other lockmasters.
           
Arriving in Newark on foot I stopped at Lock 28B, the first I’d enter, and found the lockmaster. He said he’d been notified by his peer and pointed to the lock. Cool, it was already open and ready for me to paddled into it. It’d be a good forty minutes before I’d return by kayak. Kind of tells you how busy the locks are this late in the year. I asked one lockmaster when the locks closed for the year and he said November 21, twenty-five days from now.
          
Arriving at the Newark Chamber of Commerce’s, “Welcome and Interpretation Center,” a half-mile up from Lock 28B, I didn’t feel the “Welcome” as I did with Rene yesterday. I found an employee, a man looking septuagenarian-ish. He was sitting outside smoking. I spoke first about spending the night and how I’d returned the shower room key earlier.

Through the stench of cigarette smoke I asked, “Could I use the phone here to call my wife.”        
With a snarl the unfriendly coot said, “I suppose so, where you calling.”
            “Michigan,” I stated.
            “Nope, you can’t call Michigan, they don’t allow out-of-state calls.”
            “Seriously? Well can I pay for the call, I’ll give you five dollars.”
            “No, can’t do that. Do you have a credit card?”
            “Yeah.” I began taking my Visa card out of my wallet.
            “No, a phone credit card.” He said.
            “Noooo.” A phone credit card? I’m thinking… does such a thing still exist?
            “Can’t help you.”
            Not an, “I’m sorry, can’t help you.” Nope, “Can’t help you.”

I walked down the steps to Swiftee away from the old man that I wanted to choke. Under my breath I repeatedly called him an asshole. Why any Chamber of Commerce would have such an unfriendly person working for them is beyond me. Are Newark’s volunteers?

I paddled into the open gates of Lock 28B, and as the operator began shutting the gate I asked if I could use his phone. He said yes, but I had to find a way out of the giant swimming pool to go to the office. There are several ropes in the lock used by larger boats to hold position when locking up or down. I secured Swiftee to one and climbed the ladder to call Hope. She wanted to carry on a conversation. I had to tell her the lockmaster was waiting to lock me down.

I paddled through that lock, plus 28A and 27 before arriving in downtown Lyons, and all within 5.5 miles. Why are there two Lock 28s? There’s also another question I wanted answered: Why is there no Lock 31? The lock numbering system is making little sense. Going east the countdown goes, Lock 32, 30, 29, 28B 28A, 27. So why not 32, 31, 30, 29, 28, 27?

Two days ago I asked the lockmaster at Lock 30, why there's no Lock 31, and being funny he said, "We lost it. Can't find it. The lockmaster there’s still on the job drawing paychecks. He's got it made."

I asked the same question today at Lock 28A where I used the phone. That lockmaster said the liftbridge in Fairport was Lock 31, but that makes no sense.

I've since received an e-mail from someone I’d soon met in Lyons that gave an explanation, which I could believe:     

      According to what I have read and heard at a Canal Society Annual Meeting: There is no Lock 31 because as the engineers began to work on the canal enlargement, they decided another lock was not necessary. Since all blueprints, work orders, contracts, part orders and numbers, etc were done by hand, it was decided to simply "file" all aspects of the lock. Otherwise, all the locks after the originally intended "31" would have been rewritten and re-referenced....Almost the same rationale is given for having Lock 28 B in Newark and 28 A in Lyons - Hope this helps....... (signed) Bob Stopper

In other words it would take too much time and money to correct the situation of deleting one canal from the plans. Something today in the age of computers we find hard to understand.
            I'd meet the correspondent, Bob Stopper as soon as I paddled into the final lock of the day, at Lyons, NY. 

Seeing the banner on Swiftee's stern he asked, "What does your sign mean?" After explaining he said he'd meet me at my landing, a floating dock 1000-ft beyond the Lock 27, near the Lyons Fire Department. Another reason I planned to stop at this dock, today a Sunday, there was a BBQ Chicken Dinner going on at the fire hall. 





Bob Stopper, turned out to be the most helpful, knowledgeable, and friendliest person I've thus far met on the Erie Canal. One of the first things out of his mouth was “I bought you a chicken dinner.” Fantastic, I thought since that was what I planning for lunch anyway.

Stopper, a retired Newark High School English teacher writes about the boaters and bicyclists passing through Lyons for Wayne County Life, on online paper. Over a marine radio he’d heard about my Lyons arrival by way of lockmasters.

He photographed, interviewed, and published an online story about me.

He took me into the fire station handed me a box dinner then showed me the stations shower room. He stated I was welcome to use it! (El Cheapo runyaker keeps striking gold!) Mr. Stopper even said I was welcome to use it the following day after packing up and before heading home.

The questioning for the “story” was not just one sided, for I wanted to know more about Bob Stopper for my journal. Speaking about his teaching career he said he’d taught English to about everybody from Newark presently between ages 25 to 50.

Remembering last night daughter Amber said Amy Crespo Sergent was from Newark, I had to ask.
"Did you teach Amy Sergent?"
“Yeah, I taught Amy!”
So, that night while in the van cuddled up tightly in my sleeping bag, next to the fire station, I felt snug as I sung myself to sleep with, “It’s a Small World After All.”
Day 70 – 6.0 run, 6.0 yaked 

Runyak for Liberty, Day 71, October 28, 2013
I got up bright and early the 71st day of the Runyak 4 Liberty. I may have gotten up bright and early but the day was anything but bright. In fact, during the past four days seeing the sun popping through clouds was a rarity. Every runyak was chilly, gray, and sometimes a blustery venture. But, it surely didn’t put me in a gray mood. I was enjoying the four-day trip as much as any of the past trips.

I prepped Swiftee and drove to Clyde, NY following the same route I’d be running in reverse. I’d driven it once before. Yesterday, having only runyaked 12 miles, I had plenty of time on my hands. So, I drove to Clyde and checked out the final destination of Year 5.
            The past four final destinations have been:
            2009. Port Austin, MI
            2010. Detroit, MI
            2011. Port Burwell, ON
2012. Niagara Falls, ON
At Clyde I was hoping to find the same amenities I’d found in the up-canal Cool Cities of Pittsford, Fairport, Newark and Lyons.

Although not as hip, nothing keeps Clyde from finding things of which they can be proud. For example, on a sign listing businesses of the town, under “Specialty Stores” the following were listed:
Clyde Hardware
Clyde Lumber
CNS EMS Supply
Dollar General
Mahogany Ridge Liquor
Nicoletta’s Upholstery
Fremouw Welding.
Today, parking the positioning the van in Clyde, near the “Businesses” sign I’d read yesterday, was another sign marking historical events of Clyde. It seems Abraham Lincoln’s inaugural train ride stopped in Clyde in 1861. That’s something to boast about, but Clyde must not have impressed him much either.

He Spoke briefly to a large crowd saying: 

I merely appear before you to say good morning and farewell. I did not come to make a speech, nor have I time to make one if I did. I now bid you good morning, and when the train starts, I will come out again and say farewell.            

I can just see the disheartened faces of the citizens of Clyde’s as Honest Abe turned his back on them. Aww.

When running, and in the city’s park I passed a small structure stating “Clyde's Famous Mineral Spring.” Beneath the edifice was an old hand pump. Temptation overcame me, for I had 7-miles plus of running ahead of me. I approached it and began pumping. The lever was broken; no way was it going to suck water up from below Clyde. I tried researching the “famous” spring but couldn’t find anything about it. Fame, such fleeting thing.
I hope nobody from Clyde reads my disparaging of his or her beloved city. If so, I understand. Similarly, I love my hometown Clio, MI, despite being overshadowed by Frankenmuth, the Cool City just to our north. Clyde and Clio could be sister cities, and collectively we could call ourselves Clydo.

Two miles into my run, ahead I see a vehicle pulled over to the side of the road and a man standing beside it. It didn’t take long to figure out it was Bob Stopper. He’d come looking for me because he didn’t want me to miss seeing a bit of Erie Canal history. After taking pictures of each other, he told me to look for him a mile down the road.
 Minutes later, together we crossed a ditch and he pointed to some old cut stone amongst the overgrowth of brush and trees.
            “You’re looking at something only a thousand people have seen.” Stopper told me.
What I gazed upon were remnants of Lock 65 or the original canal, 

“Clinton's Ditch,” built circa 1820. I never would have happen upon such a relic on my own. I'm so glad Bob Stopper took the time yesterday to greet me and show his hospitality.

When I hear his name I think of the great Harry "The buck stops here." Truman.
My new friend’s name is the British version of the Buck Stopper. You know the Bob Stopper?

The ruins he’d shown me was a point where the “ditch” and the second “Enlarged Erie Canal” (constructed 1834-1862) overlapped. He then said there was one more old lock relic he wanted to show me but it was off the highway a bit.

I ran further as he drove and we met again at the next intersection. I hopped in his vehicle and we drove a short distance to the remains of Lock E 54 of the Enlarged Erie Canal built in the 1850s.

Bob drove me back to where I’d left off from running and we said our goodbyes. But, I hope someday, maybe next year when I return, our paths we cross again.

I found Swiftee at the end of my 7.75-mile run and together we moved onward to our final destination at Lauraville Landing in Clyde.
The paddle was lengthier than the run because for some reason the present day canal dips two miles south in direction from the old canal and the highway that hugs it. Also, hugging the highway and original canals is a railroad. It’s the same railroad that goes through Fairport. The same one that kept waking me the first night: tracks of the old New York Central.

The railroad came into being a decade or two after the “Ditch” opened in 1825. Both were successful but there was competition. The canal expansions kept it competitive but in the end railroads won the shipping war. Since the 1990s the canal has been used almost exclusively for recreation.

Today I heard and saw several trains when paddling near the tracks. When paddling into Clyde the tracks ran right along side the canal.

Having runyaked over 250 miles along Eire Canal I’m developing feelings for it. In doing so, I wondered, what if the canal had feelings and could talk, what would it have to say about her old adversary running that close beside her?  What a slap in her face it has to be.
When out ofthe water at Lauraville Landing it didn’t take long to become chilled. The energy I was expelling when paddling the canal had kept me warm, also being down in the canal was protecting me from the wind. Getting cold, I hustled; packed the van, and then toss Swiftee inside for the long drive home. But, I had one more stop to make.
I drove back to the Lyons Fire Department and grabbed some more of that town's hospitality: a quick shower before heading for home.

Compared to Lake Erie the past two years, the canal has been one easy season of runyaking. I'd like to return again before spring but weather will keep me in Michigan for the next six months.  
What do I expect up ahead on the canal? Looking at maps I see no towns for the next 40 miles. This year I’ve been spoiled. There have been sixteen towns, averaging eight miles apart, not to mention the many landings and launches.
From Clyde the canal will pass north of the upper reaches of Lake Cayuga (the “middle finger” of the Finger Lakes.) and through the Montezuma National Wildlife Preserve. I’m envisioning a swampy or marshy area much like Shiawassee National Wildlife Refuge that I’d runyaked through in Year 1. With few roads and much marsh, I expect to do way more running than kayaking. But hey, I’m speculating, it could be a piece of cake.
            Day 71 – run, 7.75,  9.3 yaked
            Four day total - 34.25, run 35.2 yaked
            Year total -  132 run, 133.7 yaked