Days 80 thru 83
It now takes over 7 hours of driving to get back to where R4L picks up. Driving there is the worst part of my quest. I wasn't thinking of that when I set the Statue of Liberty as my goal. But, because of this I'm plotting in my mind how many more road trips, each longer the preceding, I must do. I'm estimating seven more.
The drive day was the hottest day of the summer for Michigan and New York. My plan, as usual when going solo, is to sleep in the van. I found a secluded place and tried to sleep but my sweating body was telling me, "Get a motel room, fool!" It was less safe but I opted to leave the sliding door open to get more air movement. Before morning it had cooled enough that I had to pull a cover over me.
When dawn was breaking I prepped Swiftee at Godfrey Point boat launch on Lake Oneida and drove to where I'd begin running. It was where the Erie Canal exited the lake at Verona Beach.
The run back was 9 miles.
Before launching I needed to use a nearby port-a-john, which is always gross; it became even grosser when seeing a paper plate next to the seat. That will disgust readers enough, I won't go into scenarios that came into my head as to why it was there.
I looked out into the huge lake and the waves looked rough. A fisherman was winching his boat out of the water and I asked if he knew the weather report. He answered, "The report is stay off the lake."
He was serious, but I've paddled on Lake Erie in worse conditions. My concern when asking: was it suppose to get worse or storm. I waited until he left before launching. This fool didn't want to hear anybody telling him what a fool he was.
Had the lake been calm, I would've basically paddled a 6.5 mile hypotenuse of the right angle I'd just run. That would have been too foolish under the wave conditions. I began following the shoreline point to point. A mile into the paddle I remembered I hadn't called Hope to let her know that I was going into the water. I found a boat dock where I could balance the kayak and call home.
"I forgot to tell you I launched, I'm in the water now."
"How long before you're out?" She wanted to know.
"I have no idea, don't put a time frame on it, the water is a little rough."
I hung up and began hitting the choppy water again. I was constantly looking for big waves that could overturn me. Because they were coming from a direction that gave me some push, my pace was as good as having a slight current, less than 20 min./mi.
After following the shoreline for three miles and feeling it safe enough, I cut across the lake to where I thought the canal entrance was.
I found the inlet and finished with a paddle distance of 7 miles. That was an extra 1/2 mile of paddling to be on the safe side, which was well worth it.
After landing I felt the need to cool off and clean up a bit.
There was a beach, a quarter mile away, it sounded inviting but with a fishing pier nearer I jumped in and refreshed myself there.
I then prepared Swiftee for tomorrow, Day 81. That mainly meant buying ice for the cooler and putting water and beer in it. I then drove to Utica, NY where the nearest brewery was. Nail Creek Brewing Co. (the 419th brewery I been to) only had one on-premise-brewed beer on tap but many craft taps. The pub had good food, patrons, and servers, particularly Mike, the bar manager. When he mention the evening special I knew I'd be back for supper. I explored Utica on foot until coming back for a gourmet dinner.
While eating, and drinking I explained to two guys at the bar what had brought me to Utica. When doing so a red-bearded guy overhearing asked more about it. His name was Steve. He worked for the New York D.O.T. and had done work on the canal. He was impressed with how far I'd come.
The brewpub parking lot was a city lot and Mike explained; I could basically camp there and not be bothered. So, I again saved lodging money sleeping there - much more comfortably than the hot night before.
Day 80 – 9.0 run, 7.0 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 81, July 24, 2014
Today's runyak was a shorter than usual. Ideally I'd like a total of 20 miles a day. Today would be closer to 14, which meant I'd probably finish in the a.m.
Lake Oneida is all behind me now and it's nice to be out of open water and back on the canal. And it was like a canal should look, straight with some bends but not winding. Starting back in Clyde, my first day this year, paddling was done on rivers with some modifications. It didn't seem like a canal.
Going around the second bend today in the distance I saw two dark ominous looking boats bearing down on me. Seriously, they were kind of scary looking. I'd never seen boats this sinister. When passing I saw they were tall ships with mast taken down to get under bridges. I missed the name on the first but the second was, The Nina, from Wilmington DE. Possibly a replica of the Columbus ship? When coming at me the first thing I thought was they were pirate ships.
The Pinta?
The Nina, from Wilmington, DE
In a nearby village, Sylvan Beach, across from Verona Beach, where I began paddling today, they have "Pirate's Weekend." I'd missed it by a week but saw signs remaining around town when running. The ships were just a mile or so from Sylvan Beach when I spotted them. It made sense they had something to do with the festival.
When I later watched the Youtube video promo for the festival I saw a familiar face, Captain Jack. Back in May, on the first night of my first trip this year, I spent the night in Auburn, NY and partied with the locals at CC's Tavern. I was introduced to Captain Jack, out of costume. When in charater he is a dead ringer for Jack Sparrow. On his smart phone he quizzed me with photos of him vs. Johnny Depp's character. I was fooled half the time.
Soon after seeing the ships I came to Lock 22, where once again I was lifted up, and not down as usual. This time it was 25.3-ft. I was not alone, I was locked-up with a couple canal-goers on a boat named the Dunwerkin.
The next lock, 21, was about a mile away. Usually, lockmasters will call ahead and tell the next lock to prepare for you. In my case I told this lockmaster not to pass the word, I wouldn't be passing through. I was planning to debarking next to it.
I was hoping for a landing or some sort of launch at at Lock 21 but had to settle for a few rocks on the canalbank.
To prepare Swiftee for the next leg, I needed ice. I asked the lockmaster where the nearest party store was. "New London Party Store, two mile away," the shady looking lockmaster told me. I drove away and was back in no time - packed my cooler with water and beer and drove back to my campground - Nail Creek Pub and Brewery in Utica.
The tiny brewery was in the shadows of a very large production brewery, FX Matt, which could be seen from my campground.
They had no commercial taproom but gave tours. At the end of the tours samples could be drank. To qualify as my 420th brewery I've drunk at, I'd have to take the tour, which after 419 breweries I certainly wasn't look forward to it. I managed to control myself throughout the tour's historic beginning but halfway though the tour, I snuck out and headed to the taproom with my tickets for two free pints. I sampled several lame-tasting beers before choosing the two pints I'd drink. Ultimately, I left the brewery with the second pint quite full.
Although, I did return to the brewery that evening. On the grounds of the brewery during summer they sponsor Saranac Thursday, named for their best selling beer Saranac Pale Ale. With a band playing onstage it draws huge crowds.
I have a niece and grandnephew, Pam and Dylan Ferris, who live in Boonville, NY about 30 miles from Utica. We prearranged to meet at Saranac Thursday. The crowd was big but by using cellphones we managed to find each other. We had a nice small family reunion.
Dylan, Pam and me
Dylan had a friend, Ariel with him and was he was expecting more to join him later. While waiting we went over to the "Boilermaker 15k" finish line which is next to the brewery. The 37th running of the famous 15k was held one week ago. The race has a permanant finish line which I thought was very cool. I've always wanted to run the race ever since hearing about it in the 1970's. Next best thing... Dylan and Ariel photographed me running across the finish.
Soon another friend and his wife joined us. When the husband, a red-bearded guy, entered the festival grounds Dylan went over to tell him about his great-uncle who was runyaking the Erie Canal. His friend told him that he knew me, and proceeded to whip out The Runyaker's business card. It was Steve, the guy I'd met the night before at Nail Creek Brewery.
We soon left Saranac Thursday to where it was quieter and we could talk. That would be the Nail Creek Brewery a block a way. Dylan found another friend there, Kelly. There was now six of us and we partied on.
I really enjoyed my time with Dylan. Living out of state it was only the third time we'd ever seen each other. A little trivia, one of Dylan's other uncle's (great-great-great-uncle) was George Washington Gale Ferris, Jr. the inventor of the Ferris wheel. His runyak-inventing uncle plans to return to the Utica area in October. I'm hoping that Dylan can paddle a segment with me on that return.
Day 81 – 8.0 run, 5.9 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 82, July 25, 2014
9.5 miles of early morning running, starting at 7:00 AM, got me back to Swiftee at Lock 21.
Lock 21
Being that early it wasn't a hot run but still, I was thirsty. I took the skirt off of Swiftee's cockpit, pulled out the cooler, placed it on a park bench, and opened it. Inside there was nothing but ice. My water and beer was gone. I walked away not believing it. I walked back and looked again, thinking I was going crazy. Somebody had taken the skirting off Swiftee and stolen the water and beer then placed the skirt back on.
The Cap'n gets very mad when somebody steals his beer.
It was time to launch but I was too upset to leave. Near the cooler I paced back and forth. Fortunately, a cyclist was pedaling by on the same path I'd arrived on. Seeing the Runyak 4 Liberty sign on the kayak he stopped and asked what it meant.
After explaining my six year's of adventure on the trail to NYC, I told him about my latest fiasco.
The cyclist, Tim Murphy said, "Oh, you need some water. You can have mine," and pulled the sport bottle off his bike and gave it to me.
Cap'n & Tim Murphy
A friend in need is a friend indeed. That's always expected from a friend, but helping a stranger in need is fortuitous in the case of a needy stranger. Tim Murphy is now a Facebook friend but I won't think of him as just cyber friend. I'll never forget him helping me out at the expense of leaving himself without water.
Once paddling I was still upset. I couldn't get the theft off my mind. Especially, when it came around time I usually uncap a beer. I was even a bit hungry and remembered I'd put potato chips on board along with the cooler. When realizing the chip were also stolen, it then hit me who the thief was.
It was the shady looking lockmaster I'd met yesterday. Yesterday, when I returned from the party store, which he'd given directions to, he was locking down a pontoon. As the lock gate closed, forming a bridge to the other side where Swiftee was, I asked the lockmaster if it was safe to cross. He replied yes, and I passed in front of him carrying the cooler and the bag of chips to the kayak. With nobody else around (except those on the pontoon, whom I can rule out) there is no doubt in my mind it was he that had gotten inside of Swiftee.
Getting hungrier and thirstier during the nearly 8.5 miles of paddling, I was passed by a yellow boat.
The Passiflor
As usual, photos were exchanged. After boats of this size pass, although no wake, I redirect my kayak so not to be rocked from small portside waves. Five minutes later I hear a boat coming the opposite direction and again prepare to redirect my boat. When passing I see it is yellow - I then realized it was the same boat. The mariners had turned around and came back to find out what they Runyak 4 Liberty sign on my stern was all about.
The woman mariner onboard was asking questions. She was too far away to hear well. It didn't help that she had an accent. I paddled over to the "Passaflor" and explained my expedition but it paled to theirs. When she said they were from France I immediately began singing La Marseillaise, the French National Anthem. When finished, they "Bravo"-ed me. Asked if was in need of anything, food, water, beer. "Beer!" Did she offer me a beer? I took them up on that offer, even though it turned out to be Bud.
Sandra and Clement Castex, citizens of France, began their odyssey late 2012 leaving Europe and crossing the Atlantic in the 32-ft Passaflor. With a dropped jaw I asked, "You crossed the ocean in that little boat?" Sandra answered yes. (She was doing almost all the talking, seemed she was more fluent in English.)
On the voyage they encountered waves 15-ft high. Looking again at the boat I was astounded. They spent all of 2013 in the West Indies. While there, they became pregnant. Their daughter Margot was born in the West Indies in January ofthis year.
With Margot just a few months old they left the Indies and headed for Miami. After entering the States they followed the Atlantic coast to New York City. From there they've traveled the same route that I am heading, but in the opposite direction. After navigating Lake Oneida they will turn north where the Oswego Canal will take them to Lake Ontario.
When writing this blog post I used their blog to see research where they presently were. After inserting the French text into a translation app, I was surprised when reading about myself:
But we are not the only ones performing an "exploit." We met along the way a kayaker carrying a sign "rendezvous at the Statue of Liberty." Intrigued, we turned around and met him. Imagine that this retired, very fit man plans to row 1,800 kilometers between Michigan and New York! He sang to us Les Marseillaise better than most French do it. Amazing character!"
(They were amazed but didn't mention the part about running the same distance)
I finished kayaking at what would be an ideal landing for paddlers. One where rollers are used to roll up out of the water and on the dock. Problem was, once on the dock there was no easy way out of the railed in area. Strenuously, I had to heave Swiftee over top of the railing. The day before, when checking the landing out, I saw what looked like camp counselors, and day campers, launching from a beach and wondered why they weren't using the launch. They said the beach area was easier. Only today did I learned the hard way what they meant.
Rome NY Landing
After what happen to Swiftee yesterday I was very leery when preparing him for tomorow's launch. I hid the cooler, paddle, and other valuables in a secluded place and cabled an empty Swiftee to a park bench.
Driving back to my "campground' I passed by a American Revolution battlefield. Grandnephew Dylan had given me some background on it. Enough that I had stop and check it out.
Oriskany Obelisk
Dylan said the Battle of Oriskany was one of the bloodiest battle of the Revolution. It is now a State Park and basically one-park-ranger operation. On this slow day I was given a personal tour by ranger Michael Pallio.
In 1777, American General Nicholas Herkimer, along with nearly 450 patriots were killed at Oriskany when ambushed by loyalist and Six Nation tribesmen.
Herkimer is a name I've been familiar with since childhood, even naming a guinea pig Herkimer. What I didn't know and learned from reading names on the obelisk monument is that "Herkimer" has been anglicized. The monument erected in the nineteenth century has the general's name as Nicholas Herchheimer. I point this out to Michael, the ranger. It was news to even him.
Herkimer was a Palatine German. I saw many names of patriot's on the monument which were of German heritage. The militia led by Herkimer were from Tryon County, NY which had a large Palatine German population.
Herkimer and company were on their way to relieve Fort Stanwix (Rome, NY) that was controlled by American patriots but besieged by troops of the crown. The siege failed despite Herkimer's failure to reach it.
After leaving Oriskany Battlefield I felt compelled to visit Fort Stanwix even though it was in the opposite direction from Utica. The entrance to the fort was closed but I enjoyed the time spent walking the perimeter and trying to envision the siege.
Fort Stanwix (rebuilt)
There was one more place I'd heard about and wanted to visit on this trip.
I drove to downtown Utica and found the National Distance Running Hall of Fame. This long time distance runner felt like a pilgrim at Mecca. It has only been around 16 years so it has less than 40 inductees, seven whom I've actually met.
That evening I bedded down for the third time in the parking lot of Nail Creek Pub and Brewery. I couldn't ask for a sweeter campground without paying. Once I leave in the morning I won't be returning. But you can bet when I return on my next trip to NY I will.
Day 82 – 9.5 run, 8.4 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 83, July 26, 2014
It ended up being over a 10-mile run to get from Lock 20 (where I will debark later) to where I'd left Swiftee yesterday. In route I found the Old Erie Canalway Trail and stayed on it for over five miles. It ended up making the run a bit farther, but well worth it since I didn't have to run on a state highway. I'm thinking the trail must be new for I didn't see it labeled on Google Earth beforehand.
Two-track Old Erie Canalway Trail
The Barge Canal, which I am paddling, is a mile away from the old defunct canal. Between the trail/Old Canal, and Barge Canal, meanders the Mohawk River. I take it, it was too winding for the Barge Canal engineers liking to incorporate it into the newer canal.
In the canal today in several spots I saw what looked like underground hornets nest. An eerie Erie sighting indeed. My thoughts went sci-fi, thinking maybe they were cocoons left by intergalactical aliens.
Bryozoan Colony
Bryozoan closeup
I've learned from a biologist friend they were Bryozoans. The colonies were built upon falling submerged tree. Curiosity made me pull one Bryozoan out of the water. All I saw was a gelatinous mass. Being human I find it hard to comprehend from looking at these odd creatures that they (same with sponge and coral) are animals, not plants.
I hugged the south bank for much of the way trying to make the most of the morning's shade. While doing so I saw a mink hopping along the rocks to reach a tree trunk that hung over the canal. Once out of sight and feeling safe he popped out of his hiding place. I slowly moved Swiftee in closer and he became more curious and stared at me. Of course, once I came too close, his inquisitiveness was overtaken by his instinct to flee and he was gone for good.
Neovison vison
It was about at this time I realized there was 3-inches of water sitting on the floor of Swiftee. I had to find a place to land and investigate. But, there were no good places to land, large rocks lined the shoreline for miles. I'd have to risk landing on them, then balance the kayak on end to drain the water out. I successfully did just so, but a mile later water was filling Swiftee once more.
I was approaching the finish line of four days of runyaking, and boy everyday was gorgeous. I don't plan my trips now by looking at the weather forecast as I did when on the Great Lakes. I arrive whenever I can schedule four days in a row. I've been quite lucky so far. I've been on the canal 26 days now and I have not yet got wet while kayaking, although I did once while running, and several evenings when finished for the day.
Lock 20, where my runjyak trip ends, is located in Marcy, NY, and it has a very nice park, with an aluminum float landing. Debarking there I took my time packing up, then cleansed the days sweat from my body for the long drive home. The plan is to come back one more time in October. Until then I will miss the canal. After six trips and 26 days paddling it, I've created many lasting memories. Presently, I'm thinking that somewhere during this runykak I crossed the halfway mark between Buffalo and the Statue.
Day 83 – 10.25 run, 9.8 yaked
