Monday, November 17, 2014

Runyak for Liberty Days 84 thru 87

Days 84 thru 87


Runyak for Liberty Day 84, Oct. 24, 2014
Since my first trip to the canal, when not running on trails provided near the canal, many of the miles have been run on NY Route 31. But, since leaving Lake Oneida I've not seen it. The state highway I'm now running near the canal is Route 5. It now is the road that follows the canal much of the way to Albany. Today, on my run, I turned off it to connect to the Canalway Trail. The connector was Genessee St. the main drag through downtown Utica, NY.
Canalway Trail looking from Genessee St.

Many Upstate NY towns in the vicinity of the canal have a Genesee St. Most of my life I've known the connection of my home county and NY, but now, because of my travels along the canal, I feel the kinship between the two areas. Back before Rochester it was Genesee County, through Rochester flowed the Genesee River. I'm now spotting the name Mott in my travels. It was here in Utica that C.S. Mott began managing his family's Weston-Mott Company that he moved to Genesee County Michigan.

I come to paddle the canal in October for the fall colors. Too late this year, as this picture shows, most of the leaves are on the ground because of a early autum.

At the end of an 11-mile run I found Swiftee where I'd left him the night before: Lock 20 State Canal Park, Marcy, NY.
The previous night, I arrived after dark and used the flashlight app on my smartphone in preparing Swiftee. The paddle was slightly shorter than the run, and was from Lock 20 west of Utica to Lock 19 to the east. About halfway, I saw a sign for Genesee St. this time I paddled beneath it.
Paddling beneath Genesee St. Utica, NY 
Today while on the Erie Canal I drank ale from Erie Canal Brewing Co. as I paddled along. I'd picked it up the night before from the brewery in Canastota, NY. The brewery closes at 7:00 pm. My gps said I would not arrive at the brewery until 7:20 pm. I called the brewery and Jason Tedford, brewer, and owner, said he would keep the door open until I arrived. He didn't have to do that, it was very nice of him. I think telling him on the phone his brewery would be my 433rd, influenced him to stay open. On my bucket list is to drink Bell's Two Hearted IPA while actually paddling the Two Hearted River in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Ale from Erie Canal Brewing while paddling the Erie Canal will have to work until then.

The above sign was where I began Day 84: at Lock 20. It stated when I exit the lock until I arrived at Lock 19 the water I paddled was 404 feet above sea level. Where I began runyaking in Michigan, Horseshoe Lake, the elevaton is 991. Thus far Swiftee has dropped 587 feet in his venture to the New York Harbor. 
Day 84 – 11 run,  10.4 yaked

Runyak for Liberty Day 85, Oct. 25, 2014
I woke up this morning the same place I did yesterday morning - Nail Creek Brewery and Pub. I'd camped there three consecutive nights on my trip last July. This makes the 5th night. My plan is to sleep in its parking lot one more night and then move on.

As soon as I'd launch today, I'd be entering Lock 19. I landed at a rickety floating dock at the high end of Lock 19 yesterday. It wasn't easy getting on shore from the dock. Two sections of decking was used to connect the dock to shore, but the first was like walking from one end of a teeter-totter to the other. No way in hell did I try taking Swifttee off the dock. I had just chained him to the decking overnight.
As soon as I arrived back, on foot, at my starting point, Lock 19, I spoke to the lockmaster. He was a little hesitant to lock me through, saying he had a large cruise boat arriving in 15 minutes. He wondered if I would wait and he'd us lock down together. I wasn't quite ready to launch so had no problem with that. In that time I also called home and talked to Hope.
Lockmaster of 19
The lockmaster said it was a big cruise boat but I still gasped when I saw it come into view. It barely fit into the lock and bumped into the walls as it entered.
Blount Small Ships Round Trip 14 Day Cruise New York and Montreal
In aspect ratio the Grand Caribe was a whale and Swiftee was a minnow. Tourist on board couldn't get enough of Swiftee and the Runyak 4 Liberty sign on his stern. They continually took photos.
I asked, "Where are you headed?"
"New York City, same as you," a man hollered down.
I yelled back, "I'll race you."
He replied, "We'll give you a head start."
That was a lie, soon as the lock gate opened they left me in their wake.
From researching I found out they were on a 14 day, 13 night round trip NYC to Montreal.

These spooky roots made me think about Halloween, which was a few days a way.
The New York Thruway, the I-90 turnpike, follows the canal closely for 80 miles, Utica to Schenectady. This is the closest it has been so far.

So little fall color, but not what I was hoping for being October.


The 85th Day of the R4L ended at a floating pier belonging to a tour boat company, Erie Canal Cruises Inc. Signs facing the water said "Tour Boats Only." There was a nearby landing for kayaks but it wasn't nearly as convenient. I'd previously inquired about the possibility of landing on the pier at a nearby gift shop. A lady there said seasonal canal tours had ended a month ago. Because of that, I saw no reason not to land and launch from the pier. I cabled Swiftee for the night and drove back to Utica.  

That evening, back at Nail Creek, my grandnephew Dylan, who I'd partied with last July again returned to visit. He'd brought along two sisters, Chara and Rachel Dow. They were artist from Rochester, NY. Also there were Steve and wife Emily, who also partied with Dylan and me in July.

The five of them were planning on going to a Halloween haunted warehouse on the other side of town. Dylan asked if I was game. I said, "sure" if they didn't mind hanging out with a senior citizen. I don't think any of us were ever frightened by the staff who tried their best to scare us. Although, it was great fun and I was very glad I was asked to tagalong.

Afterwards, we went back to Nail Creek and for a couple more beers. Before I knew it, it was going on 2:00 am. I couldn't believe it . Wish I could have partied longer but I had to get to bed, I had a long day ahead of me.

        Emily         Steve          Dylan          Rachel            Chara           Riley

Day 85 – 8.25 run, 7.6 yaked

Runyak for Liberty Day 86, Oct. 26, 2014
I slept good last night at my Nail Creek campground. Too good. I woke up after 8:00 am. I'd never woke up this late to runyak and I felt way behind schedule. I packed up quickly and left the Nail Creek Pub for good. I drove to where I'd be ending the day's runyak, Little Falls, NY. This town is far different than any of the towns the canal passes to the west. It's situated in a gorge, in the foothills of the Adirondacks.

I drove through rain and high chilly winds getting to Little Falls. The type of day I hope never occurs  when I leave home in autumn to runyak. I drove around the town looking for Lock 17 which was quite inaccessable. I evenully found the lock and it was something to behold.

Little Falls could honestly change there name to Giant Lock. When Swiftee gets there he will be locked down over 40-ft. It is the deepest lock in the NY canal system; all to get around a NOT so little cataract in the Mohawk River. Since Rome, NY, the Canal either parallals the Mohawk River or incorporates it. Here in Little Falls, a one mile bypass with lock, parallels the Mohawk.

I found no place to debark before the lock like many previous locks. I looked for the lockmaster and asked his advice to where I could exit. He seemed not to know the area well, but said I might be able to get a kayak out below the lock, by a water treatment plant. I drove there. Being over a mile away from the road, it would mean extra miles of running, today and tomorow. On top of that, the kayak access, in and out, of the river did not look easy.

Because I overslept, I was now 10:30 am and I was worried about what time I'd finish. Would it be dark when I arrived at the precarious debarking point? I decided this is one of those days where it would be better to kayak first, then run second, because running in the dark is safer than paddling.

I drove back to Lock 19 and told the lockmaster my plan, for he'd already stated that being a Sunday they were shorthanded in manpower, and he was operating two locks, 18 and 17. He said if I got to the first lock, 18, and there was nobody there, it meant he was at Lock 17. "Call, if no answer, I'm driving between them."

The paddle from Herkimer to Little Falls was cold, but the had rain stopped. The cold wind, being from the right direction, helped moved me along faster than usual.


More than halfway into the eight miles of paddling I went through Lock 18. The helpful Lockmaster I'd met at Lock 17 was there to lock me down. In the lock, and out of the wind, I decided it was a good time for lunch. I set my drybag down for a moment at the top of the lock. Struggling to get my food and drink the lock began emptying. I then couldn't reach the drybag. It was several feet above my head. I spoke to the lockmaster. He retrieved it, and as I exited the lock, he descended the stairs and tossed it to me. All lockmasters I've met seem so helpful, (even the ones who steal your beer).

Arriving at Little Falls, near where the river splits, one direction to rapids, the other to the lock, I spotted a boat launch. Immediately I got out at the ramp and ditched the idea of going though the lock and exiting from the riverbank by the water plant. After pulling Swiftee out at the launch, the first thing I did was take cover from the wind. I then called the lockmaster and told him I wouldn't be going through. He thanked me several times for he was at Lock 18 and a boat was arriving there, it saved him from racing back to Lock 17 for my sake. "I'll see you tomorrow" was the last words I said as I got off the cellphone.

The run back to Herkimer was more memorable than the paddle, even though there wasn't a trail to run on. It was mostly on State Hwy 5. Midway I took a breather where I saw a very old looking church. The church, is located at Fort Herkimer in the town(ship) of German Flatts. The Fort, built in 1740 and used during the French and Indian War, was torn down. Its material was used in the building of the Enlarged Erie Canal in 1840, but the church, built in 1667, still stood.


The first Europeans to settle in what now is German Flatts town(ship) were Palentine Germans. They arrived in the Mohawk River Valley through a land grant in 1722. The cemetery is full of tombstones bearing German surnames, including Herkimer. I previously told about General Herkimer and the Battle of Oriskany on Day 82 of the R4L. In the vicinity of this church is where the general spent his early childhood. I mentioned how "Herkimer" was originally "Herchhiemer." Here on tombstones I found another spelling, "Herckheimer." It seems to be an intermediate spelling between Herchheimer and Herkimer.



                click to enlarge                                         click to enlarge

I finished the run to complete the day's runyak about 4:00 pm. Obviously, my fear of finishing in the dark never would have happened.

Before getting in my van, I saw a sign at Lake Erie Canal Boat Tours, I pause for some reflection. It stated the canal in 363 miles long, drops 565 feet in elevation, via 35 locks. Thus, I have completed 76% of the distance, 52% of the elevation drop and 51% of the locks.
With nearly half the locks ahead of me and only a quarter of the length left to paddle, it tells me the steepest part is yet to come.

After three days of running and kayaking I felt I needed to shower. I drove back to Little Falls and checked into a Knights Inn. It was a first for El Cheapo Runyaker. In the past 86 Days, when alone, I've always slept in my van. There were other reasons besides wanting to clean up: it was going to be very cold and windy night, and I was too tired to look for a safe place to camp. Staying in a warm bed watching tv, while eating wings and having a beer, sounded just to good. I gave in to the temptation.
Day 86 – 7.75 run, 7.7 yaked

Runyak for Liberty Day 87, Oct. 27, 2014
I woke up in the hotel bed at 4:00 am. I tried going back to sleep but after nearly an hour I prepared to leave. Normally, vacating the hotel that early may have bothered me, like I didn't get my money's worth, but I never felt that way at all today.

Swiftee was a mile away, with light from the flashight app I packed water, beer and snacks in him. I then headed to where the Interactive Canalway Water Trail Map showed there was a municipal boat launch, St. Johnsville, 11 miles away.

It was still dark when I began running as 6:25 am. Before leaving I used the restroom and was surpised to see a shower. I was happy to learn I could clean up before my drive home.

Using light from the smartphone I headed from the marina and soon found the Erie Canalway Trail. I would be running on it nearly all the way back to Little Falls.

It was 45 minutes of running before dawn arrived.
In route along the trail there was much signage about the canal's history, but about seven miles into my run I came upon signs at a clearing that really caught my fancy. Unknowingly, I stumbled upon General Herkimer's mansion.


click to read

General Herkimer's mansion was built in 1764, after the French and Indian War. He was living there when the American Revolution began. After being mortally wounded at Battle of Oriskany (over thiry miles away) he was brought here, where he eventually died August 6, 1777. His grave went unmarked for 70 years. Then in 1896 the State of New York erected a 50 obelisk monument at the graveyard.
The last few miles of the run I entered the gorge in which the town of Little Falls is situated. The trail was walled by stone on both side. To me it seemd much money was spent on the trail's construction. I figured the cut had to been made for another purpose and not the trail. Who knows maybe it was the old Erie Canal?





It was 9:30 am when I paddled away from the boat launch in Herkimer headed to the giant of all the locks of the New York State Canal system.

I shared the lock-down with a retired Marine and his boat. I never spoke to to lone elderly jarhead, we just waved to each other. I didn't have to speak, his boat and all its flags, signs, and "Iwo Jima" photo said it all. The name of the boat was Tun Tavern. To me, the name had no signifcance, but I was curious enough to researched it later. Tun Tavern was in Philly, it was where during the Revolution the first Marines were recruited.

 40.5-ft Drop
The Marine and I parted ways after being dropped over 40-ft. Him? I imagine back to Philly? Me, I had still had close to 10 miles of paddling to arrive in St Johnsville. The weather the whole way turned out to be the best of the four day trip.

The paddling highlight turned out be watching a Bald Eagle.  It is the 9th day of the 87 days of the exploration that I've spotted a Bald Eagle(s).

It was gong on 2:00 pm when I landed at St. Johnsville and I hadn't had any lunch yet. So, before stowing Swiftee away for the last time, I sat on a park bench snacked on beer, pretzels and turkey cold cuts. Before leaving I used the shower and bathed before the long haul home.

I'm now about 75 miles from, he end of the Erie Canal. I figure in two more trips from Michigan I will be in Albany. The light at the end of the tunnel cannot be seen yet... but it will be dawning on me soon enough.
Day 87 – 11 run,  10.9 yaked

So Far:

 Those who have followed me over the years know I have done other fundraisers for cancer research (V Foundation for Cancer Institute, American Cancer Society, Dana Farber Cancer Institute, American Cancer Institute.) When I began my runyaking to Niagara Falls and now Statue of Liberty it never crossed my mind to do another. Yet, along my route people have stopped me and asked if there was a cause for which I was raising money. So, I decided to go looking for a good cancer research institute so when asked I can say "YES." In my search the Cancer Research Institute was always one of the highest rated and why I chose to go with them. My friend Corky Meinecke, who died of cancer in 1997 is still the spirit that drives me. If you are following my progress as I Runyak for Liberty and feel you'd like to make a special pledge to someone who has fought cancer please do. You will be in my thoughts as I runyak to the Statue of Liberty. You can donate at: Riley's CRI page