Days 58 thru 63
Runyak for Liberty
On the final day of the Horseshoe
to Horseshoe Expedition, I veered off course toward Niagara Falls and wrote the
following: Over two miles ahead from
where I launched, the Niagara River divides into two channels, the Chippawa,
and the Tonawanda. Between the channels rests Grand Island, NY. I would be
taking the Chippawa Channel, but I had a reason to paddle toward Grand Island.
In
the back of my head I'm saddened to see the Horseshoe to Horseshoe Expedition
coming to an end, and have thought of what I'd do come the summer of 2013.
One
idea that has entered my foolish head is to paddle 370 miles from Tonawanda,
the western terminus of the Erie Canal to the eastern terminus, on the Hudson
River. From
there, following the Hudson, New York City is another 145 miles. Circling the
Statue of Liberty seems crazy enough to be an ultimate goal. Presently, I will
not commit to doing it. I'm not willing to say it will happen, but if I do, I’d
need a starting point from the Niagara River. The best starting point from
Niagara River would be Grand Island, NY.
Anyone
following my travels knows continuity says I must go to Grand Island now by
kayak, and if I return, I can start where I was today. When
close enough to Grand Island I touched two possible starting points in case I
should continue, and then headed back to the Canadian side of the Niagara
River.”
Well, its nine months later and
today I set out to test whether runyaking to the Statue of Liberty is possible.
Of course kayaking to NYC is possible, but physically can I runyak it? Two-day
excursions would be out of the picture being far from home. The true limitation
would come down to how far could this senior citizen run in a week?
Setting fifty miles of running over five days as a basis, I headed for the Erie
Canal. I’d made it to the Falls solo, but I’ve decided to
ease the rules a bit and invite my wife, Hope to come along. Another
difference, before I was following the waters of the Flint River. I guess that
won’t be the case once off the Niagara River and in the Canal. With two kayaks, both fitting
inside the mini-van, Hope and I arrived on Grand Island, NY looking for the
place I’d touched last September in route to the Falls.
It turned out to be inside a state
park. “Dang,” I thought, “there goes another rule, in that I’d never paid fees
for entry, launching, or parking.”
Pulling up to the park entrance booth and knowing I wouldn’t launch until the following morning, I asked if an entry pass would be good for twenty-four hours. The nice lady in the booth said the pass was only good for the day purchased but allowed me enter and “check out” where I’d launch without paying.
After finding the place I'd previously "touched"
we left Grand Island and book a hotel near the Buffalo airport, unsure of how
many days we'd be staying.
Runyak for Liberty Day 58, June 27, 2013
I arrived
back at the state park quite early the next morning. The gate was open and
nobody was taking money! I was ecstatic when placing Swiftee near the river for
still intact was my parameter of never having paid entrance, parking, or
launching fees.
My smugness remained while driving
back to where I’d finish kayaking, a mile or so up the Erie Canal in North
Tonawanda, NY. Hope, not wanting to paddle the wide Niagara River opted out of
the paddle, saying she’d while away the hours at the North Tonawanda Launch until
my arrival.
I’d picked
up a serious cold before leaving Michigan so the run of nearly ten miles to
Swiftee was a combination of sniffling and sore throat. I ran at a slower than
normal pace, 12min/mi; not because I was sick, but in an effort to conserve leg
energy for later in the week.
After launching
from Grand Island I paddled into the Tonawanda Channel of the Niagara River.
Not two miles into the paddle I came upon five kayakers paddling the opposite
way toward Buffalo. We stopped and talked several minutes. They were a kayaking club from Grand Island that paddles every Thursday.
They wanted me to
paddle with them. I let them know I’d like to, but I was on a mission and time
was of the essence.
Further explaining my adventure and
how far I’d come they were very impressed. What I remembered most was of the
women saying, “You must be very brave.” What me brave? That’s never crossed my
mind. Sages will tell you there’s a thin line between bravery and stupidity. I
fit more closely into the second category.
Two miles later, I paddled under a
very large bridge
that connects Grand Island, NY to mainland. sidewalk.
I’d ran across said pathway earlier to get to Swiftee.
Its’ part of I-190 but had a pedestrian/bicycle.From the bridge to the Canal
entrance, Niawanda Park was on Swiftee’s starboard. I’d run the length of the
linear park on a paved trail earlier. While paddling, and wearing a captain's hat, I got my kicks by yelling “Ahoy!” from my tiny boat to those on the
trail.
A couple miles later I spotted Hope and the van. Feeling run down from having a cold I was glad to finish.
Day 58 - 9.5 miles run, 7.9 yaked.
Runyak for Liberty Day 59, June 28, 2013
The
forecast for the day was to be a wet one. Paddling on the Great Lakes the past
three years, I watched weather reports closely for wind and storms. On a canal
I need not worry much about weather as previously. I’ve driven so far to get
here I will deal with whatever Mother Nature presents for the day.
Paddling
out of North Tonawanda I noticed the canal looks much like rivers I’ve paddled but with more boat traffic. There
is a slight current and it’s in my favor. That means, although hard to believe,
some water molecules of my home watershed,
the Flint River still presses against my paddle.
With rain
in the forecast Hope again decided not to put her kayak in the water. She found
things to do that kept her busy near the West Canal Marina launch.
To find landings for Swiftee I’m
using the New York State Canal Corporation’s Interactive Canalway Water
Trail Map. I’m finding it very valuable, for it even provides photos of the
landings. The North Tonawanda Launch where I launched today is the 2nd landing available on the canal going east.
At the 5th listed, West Canal Marina, I spotted Hope and
landed. I did not exit the boat, for standing by Hope, on the dock, was a West
Marina County Park employee. From speaking to him I learned there was a bridge
between his facility and the 6th landing, Amherst Veteran’s Park,
on the opposite side of the canal. I decided to paddle there and run
back via the bridge.
There was
no such bridge. The park worker turned out to be ignoramus or just having some
fun at my expense. I’d now have to find another place to land.
The next landing, 7th on
the map, Lockport UpperTerminal Launch, was too far away. Using it meant
I’d exceed sixteen miles of running for Day 59. I’d have to find a place
somewhere closer to land. I need to keep the run miles close to ten a day if
this Runyak for Liberty “test” stood a chance.
On route to
this impromptu landing I was hoping to find, I spied something floating in the
middle of the canal. A turtle sitting on a small piece of debris? I paddled
closer. My second guess, although far-fetched was a turtle floating on a dead
opossum. It turned out to be something even more disgusting, a dead snapper all bloated up dwarfing its shell.
A mile from
where I’d find an exit point I saw the first evidence that I was on a canal and
not a river. I truly didn’t understand its full purpose but it’s some sort of gate.
For flood control maybe?
The spot
where I landed was nothing fancy. In fact it was downright precarious. It was
where a pipeline crossed the canal and boulders covered it. I paralleled the
rocks, carefully exited Swiftee, and then climbed up the steep embankment to
where Hope was waiting with the van. But to get Swiftee to the van from below
was an invitation for disaster. Instead I cabled and locked him to the pipeline
warning sign
for the night.
All I had
to do was get in the van and drive away to the hotel, right? Of course not,
this is runyaking, I had to run eight miles back to West Canal Marina to
complete the runyak cycle. But at that moment I was too hungry. We drove to the
nearest town, Lockport, for lunch. On the way there it began raining. It
wouldn’t stop.
After lunch and back to where
Swiftee was, cats and dogs continued falling from the sky. Their carcasses
piled up throughout the entire eight-mile run. Hope in the van, me on foot,
leap-frogged the entire way. Occasionally she’d pull off the road, I’d open the
hatch, and use it as an umbrella to take a break from the downpour. Nice to
have a spouse that understands runyaking and doesn’t tell you, “get your ass in
the van, Fool.” She surely wanted to, especially knowing I had a cold, and the
last place I needed to be was out in a chilly rain.
Coughing
and sneezing, I continued until the runyak cycle was complete. When back at the
hotel I stood under a hot shower for nearly thirty minutes to get my dermis,
epidermis, and hypodermis all back to their normal temperatures. Two days and
over forty miles of runyaking have been completed, but the Runyak to Liberty
“test” is being threatened.
Day 59 - 11.5 run 13.4 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 60, June 29, 2013
Waking up
on the sixtieth day of the journey I still was suffering from a cold but felt I
was over the hump.
The area I’d be kayaking, Lockport,
had received so much rain it was dramatized in the local news. When in Lockport
yesterday we waited in the van for the rain to ease up before going into a
restaurant. We gave up waiting and made a run for it. Deja vu – it did the
exact same thing the day before. I missed getting wet while runyaking the first
day, unlike the second.
The news
reported that Lowertown Lockport was under water. Video footage showed kayaks
paddling down the streets. So, when I awoke on Day 60, Hope watching the news,
was worried to death. Again she wouldn’t be kayaking; she didn’t even want me
going to Lockport.
Worrying is a major pastime for
Hope. She gets upset when I don’t worry along with her. I never go totally
Alfred E. Newman, “What, me worry?” I prepare for danger, but I’m not going to
start worrying before seeing anything imminent. Sarcastically, I told her,
“Well, I guess we might as well give up, pack up and go home.”
In the Lockport report it stated
the “Lowertown” area flooded. We had no idea what or where Lowertown
was.
I’d soon learn the section of Lockport where we’d eaten lunch yesterday
was in the upper part. It was bad enough there; we drove through water eight
inches deep. Today we drove to Lowertown and
found everything looking quite normal. So, I ran from Nelson C. Goehle
Public Marina, the 7th landing, near Lowertown to where
I’d left Swifty. The most dangerous part of today’s runyak was descending the rocky
embankment, unlocking Swiftee, and launching from boulders. 
Without incident
and in a matter of an hour Swiftee and I approached the town of Lockport.
Before us was the first of many locks that we’d encounter. Paddling closer to
the lock there was a sign stating, “Wait for Green Light.” Seeing a small
distant red light I waited… and waited.
After fifteen
minutes I thought this is b.s. and began paddling toward a dock adjacent to the
lock. The lockmaster must have wondered why I was floundering in the canal. He
exited his post and began approaching Swiftee and me with papers in hand.
I spoke first, “I’m
a virgin, break me in easy. I have no idea what I’m doing.”
He was gentle,
telling me, “You can dock and portage, or you can go through the lock.”
I told him I’d
enjoy the experience of going through the lock.
“You want me to
lock you down? I can lock you down.” He told me.
Awesome! I thought.
Throughout my past, authorities have only offered to“lock me up.”
After opening the
gate and letting me inside the lock he showed me the ropes. Literally, he
showed me ropes that boaters used to
stabilize their craft during the water transfer. In Swiftee’s case no ropes
were needed. I could paddle in circles during the water transfer if I
wanted.The lockmaster said I’d go through two locks, each would lower me 25
feet.
Each lock is 45-ft.
by 326-ft. Now, had I been in a motorized boat I would've paid locking fees,
but paddle vessels are free. I learned this before leaving home and thought it
fantastic. Why? Once again Swiftee and I would escape “fees.”
When being lowered in the giant swimming pool.
I wondered how in the world could this be free?
I’ve done the math, over 5,500,000 gallons of water (s‘cuse me for restating…
over five point five million gallons!) was removed (11 million if the next
vessel was traveling the same direction as Swiftee and me) at no charge! I
never saw the lockmaster again but I felt I owed him lunch or something.
A mere
fifty-feet lower I continued paddling. “A mere fifty” I say because the lock
put me below the Niagara Escarpment, which at The Falls, some twenty miles away, is 167
feet.
I found
Hope some distance beyond the locks at the 8th available canal
landing, Nelson C. Goehle
Public Marina. I
debarked and positioned the van at the 9th available canal
landing, Gasport Launch.
Toward
evening, after arriving at the Gasport Launch by kayak, I hid Swiftee in
bushes, cable and locked him for the night. Today was the first good day of
Erie Canal runyaking. I was still was sniffing and coughing - but it didn’t rain!
Day 60 - 11.0 run 10.6 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 61, June 30, 2013
After four nights in the same hotel we packed up and moved out, for when finishing today I’d be forty “canal miles” from Buffalo. A pinched nerve in Hope’s back would hinder her from paddling. Again, the second kayak remained in the van. She, kayak #2, and the van, stayed at the 10th available Erie Canal landing, Middleport Guard Gate Launch. The launch’s name reflected another gate in the canal, the third of its kind I’ve passed.
When running through the town of Middleport I read a sign that stated, “#1 Best Place in New York to raise Children, #11 in the United States by Business Week Magazine. I was impressed.
As soon as I pushed off from Gasport Launch I was amused when passing a marina and seeing two boats having the same name, Sam I Am. One boat was stationed between them… to referee? Yeah, keep them from going at each other’s throats in the battle of “Who is the True Sam?” I just had to take a photo of Sams They Are before paddling toward Middleport.
After four nights in the same hotel we packed up and moved out, for when finishing today I’d be forty “canal miles” from Buffalo. A pinched nerve in Hope’s back would hinder her from paddling. Again, the second kayak remained in the van. She, kayak #2, and the van, stayed at the 10th available Erie Canal landing, Middleport Guard Gate Launch. The launch’s name reflected another gate in the canal, the third of its kind I’ve passed.
When running through the town of Middleport I read a sign that stated, “#1 Best Place in New York to raise Children, #11 in the United States by Business Week Magazine. I was impressed.
As soon as I pushed off from Gasport Launch I was amused when passing a marina and seeing two boats having the same name, Sam I Am. One boat was stationed between them… to referee? Yeah, keep them from going at each other’s throats in the battle of “Who is the True Sam?” I just had to take a photo of Sams They Are before paddling toward Middleport.
When arriving in Middleport by kayak I saw a restaurant sign on the bank saying “Best Food on the Erie Canal."
I knew immediately where I wanted to eat lunch. Two
miles beyond town I landed at Middleport Guard Gate Launch and I told Hope where we should eat. With no argument from
her we lunched at Peggy’s Towpath Café.
After eating, walking to the van, we came to our own
conclusion… if that is the best place to eat on the Erie Canal… don’t eat anywhere
on the Erie Canal. We also formed an opinion about Business Week Magazine
rating, for when eating at the restaurant the middle-aged manager (Peggy, the
owner?) was busy tending to a child. Halfway through our meal the child’s
mother came in and the conversation between her and the manager was quite
heated and loud. Both had pissy attitudes. The mother left without the child.
The manager (seemingly the grandmother) began berating the mother to a customer
saying, “And who do you think has custody? I do.”
When leaving the restaurant we saw the mother next door at a
laundromat, puffing a cigarette. I never would have mentioned the incident
here, had it not been for the “sign” coming into town. Hey, the sign may be
correct but we had to laugh.
On the other hand, when Hope was waiting for me at Middleport Guard Gate Launch, knowing nothing about the sign,
she told about of a Amish-Mennonite father and four children, ages about
fourteen to eight. They came to the launch, and put in a canoe. All five talked
quietly amongst themselves, the father giving directions, the children
following them to a tee. That many in a canoe and no one raised a voice? It was
hard to believe. She said after paddling they sat near the launch and quietly
fished for some time before leaving.
Hope’s entire story sounded like she met the Stepford
Children. Was the family from Middleport? On the second kayaking leg of the
day, on the opposite side of the canal I saw three Amish-Mennonite looking children sitting on the canal banks and took a photo. “Not the same kids,” said Hope
when seeing the photo.
Since Lockport, on the north side of the canal, is the well maintained Canalway Trail.
I use it while running whenever available. Trouble is, since Lockport all landings
have been on the canal’s south side. So, I have to use the nearest bridges to
and from landings in order to use the path. Bates Road Launch, is the
first landing on the same bank as the trail.
From Bates Road Launch Hope planned to walk up the path until seeing me paddling down the canal. The paddling speed was near that of a walk, so after finding her we stayed together until arriving back a Bates Road.
Since leaving Lockport, the Canal seems slightly elevated. When running the
path, canal on one side, road on the other, some roads actually look lower. Not
sure if this is common. I will have to wait and see as I travel further.
We spent the night at a strange motel in Albion NY. Therewas nobody to check us in. It was all done over the phone. It felt clandestine, or rather like instructions to a speakeasy. After calling the number posted on the locked office door, I was asked name, address, and credit card number. After the person on the phone felt I was on the up and up she said, “Go to the side of the office.”
“Yes I’m there now.”
“Do you see a mailbox?”
“Yes.”
“Open the mailbox, do you see a bunch of envelopes?”
“Yes.”
“Find the one that has ‘Novak’ written on it.”
I flipped through the envelopes, each having a different
surname until coming to Novak. “Yes, I see it.”
“Inside the envelope you’ll find the key to Room 7.”
“Ahh yes, thank you.” I took the key back to Hope, looking
over my shoulder and thinking, “Am I on Candid Camera?” I did spot cameras. The
owners of Dollinger’s Motels have three motels in the area. I’m thinking all
three are monitored by cameras from one location. Day 61 – 10.5 run 10.6 yaked
Runyak for Liberty Day 62, July 1, 2013 With no landings between Bates Road Launch and where
I wanted to end today, Albion Boat Launch, the 12th available
landing, I was determined to do it all in one runyaking leg. It would
mean 8.5 miles running and the same paddling.
Across the road and a hundred yards away from the Albion Boat Launch was the Albion Correctional Facility. As two mornings before Hope was worried to death. No way was she going to hang around the launch until I finished. Somebody from the prison surely was going to break out and get her. I thought that meant she’d finally be paddling. No, the pinched nerve was still bothering her. She stayed at the motel. This was the 5th and last day, meaning we’d hauled her kayak to New York for no reason.
On the run to Swiftee, stationed back at Bates Road Launch, I needed to go to the bathroom, and guess what… miles from nowhere, next to the road, in an onion field, what should appear but a Port-a-john.
Across the road and a hundred yards away from the Albion Boat Launch was the Albion Correctional Facility. As two mornings before Hope was worried to death. No way was she going to hang around the launch until I finished. Somebody from the prison surely was going to break out and get her. I thought that meant she’d finally be paddling. No, the pinched nerve was still bothering her. She stayed at the motel. This was the 5th and last day, meaning we’d hauled her kayak to New York for no reason.
On the run to Swiftee, stationed back at Bates Road Launch, I needed to go to the bathroom, and guess what… miles from nowhere, next to the road, in an onion field, what should appear but a Port-a-john.
Talk about Johnny-on-the-spot. Seriously, I wouldn’t have made it another fifty
yards. Soon after, I was able to cross over the channel and run the Canalway Trail. Nearer to Swiftee, I looked below the canal and trail and saw a road that disappeared under the canal.
I was surprised, yet as
mentioned, I’d seen creeks that went under, and roads lower than the canal.
Maybe I’d be seeing more roads going under the canal? Nope, I found out later
that this is the only
road that goes under the Erie Canal, and is mentioned in Ripley’s Believe
It of Not.
When reaching Swiftee I’d totaled 51 miles of running in five days. The four previous days while running I watched the Garmin Forerunner closely making sure I didn’t run faster than the benchmark twelve-minute/mile pace. Today knowing I’d passed the test, I didn’t observe the pace closely. I definitely will be returning again sometime this summer and advancing another 50 mile toward NYC.
While paddling beside the trail, I passed and elderly man whom I’d passed earlier when running. He had on a backpack, carried a walking stick, and was wearing a Canalway Trail shirt. When paddling by I asked him, “You walking the trail all the way.”
“No, this is my job,” he said.
“Oh, I see!” I said, but really I didn’t. I kept
paddling thinking he had to be some sort of trail custodian for this section of
trail.
For the past five days I’ve tried to take photos of every bridge I paddled beneath. In the fifty some miles there has been over forty. Since the locks of Lockport several have been lift bridges, as was the one in the wee town of Knowlesville I went under today.
For the past five days I’ve tried to take photos of every bridge I paddled beneath. In the fifty some miles there has been over forty. Since the locks of Lockport several have been lift bridges, as was the one in the wee town of Knowlesville I went under today.
The man answered, “I was thinking the same thing.”
That happened the day after the flood, so I wonder if the canal was higher and that was the reason I hit that bridge and no others. Since then I’ve learned the Erie Canal Song and understand the chorus: “Low Bridge, Everybody down! Low Bridge, we’re coming to a town.”
I also try taking photos of every boat that passes. Today, as a small one with a man and woman aboard passed, the man asked, “Can I take your picture?” So we posed for each other. So far all motorized boats have been courteous to Swiftee, slowing to a no-wake speed. One mile from finishing today I rounded a bend and saw a sign on the bank stating “ Northenmost Point of the Erie Canal.”
That happened the day after the flood, so I wonder if the canal was higher and that was the reason I hit that bridge and no others. Since then I’ve learned the Erie Canal Song and understand the chorus: “Low Bridge, Everybody down! Low Bridge, we’re coming to a town.”
I also try taking photos of every boat that passes. Today, as a small one with a man and woman aboard passed, the man asked, “Can I take your picture?” So we posed for each other. So far all motorized boats have been courteous to Swiftee, slowing to a no-wake speed. One mile from finishing today I rounded a bend and saw a sign on the bank stating “ Northenmost Point of the Erie Canal.”
In the past five days I’ve never paid attention to how far north I’d been traveling. Come to find out, at the bend I was less
than eight miles south of Lake Ontario. Past the bend I began to feel sprinkles of rain. I paddled harder knowing it was suppose to rain the rest of the day. In a rush, I landed but left Swiftee. I got back to the “Speakeasy” Motel just in time to get ashower before checkout time. Still raining when returning for Swiftee, umbrellas were used as we loaded and headed west for Michigan. I must say, although being sick and having a ton of rain, I truly enjoyed the past five days. I’m looking forward to each of the 370 miles of canal. After three years of battling the Great Lakes, paddling Erie Canal is a piece of cake. Having the Canalway Trail beside me much of the way is sweet icing on the cake. Day 62 – 8.5 miles run 8.6 miles yaked. Five day total 51 run 51.1 yaked
